Every night, the clear winter skies and ocean meld into a void and the lack of electricity in the village brings the stars close, all around us, like fireflies. Vukani has the best views in Mdumbi as well as a closeness to village life.  If you want a local experience or have a tight budget, or if you just want a simple yet comfortable experience, I’d recommend Vukani. 

The only reminder of last night’s adventure was the muddied cars that stood parked between me and my view of the ocean.  Incredibly, and overnight, with a little help from the sunshine, this landscape had transformed into a paradise beyond my expectations.

I’ve never seen a shark, only in aquariums, but there were plenty of reef sharks swimming just a few metres away, it was amazing to see them in their natural habitat and undisturbed by our presence.